Why Ronda Is Still One of Spain's Most Charming Cities — Almost a Century After Hemingway Fell in Love

Hemingway's Ronda

Ernest Hemingway visited Ronda almost exactly a century ago, in 1923, and never quite got over it. He described it simply as the place to go "if you ever go to Spain on a honeymoon or if you ever bolt with anyone" — and brought multiple lovers to the town over the years, allegedly including actress Ava Gardner. He celebrated his final birthday here in 1960.

It was in Ronda's bullring that Hemingway met the legendary matador Cayetano Ordóñez, who directly inspired the character Pedro Romero in The Sun Also Rises. The town's dramatic Tajo gorge inspired one of the most haunting scenes in For Whom the Bell Tolls, where soldiers are thrown into the ravine — based on real events from the Spanish Civil War. A statue of Hemingway was erected near the bullring in 2015, and a street behind the Parador hotel bears his name.

The Puente Nuevo — 98 Metres Above the Gorge

Ronda's most iconic landmark is the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), spanning the breathtaking Tajo gorge. It stands 98 metres high, took 42 years to construct, and was completed in 1793. For half a century after its completion, it was the world's highest bridge. Its fortifications remain remarkably well-preserved.

Spain's Oldest Bullring

At 243 years old, Ronda's bullring is the oldest in Spain. It houses original Goya etchings of bullfighters and each September hosts the famous "Goyesca" bullfight, where matadors perform in 18th-century costume. Ronda is considered the cradle of modern bullfighting — it was here that Pedro Romero famously dismounted his horse and used his cape against a bull, changing the sport forever. Madonna filmed her "Take a Bow" music video in this ring in 1994.

A Historic Quarter with 30+ Museums

The old town holds centuries of layered history in a compact, walkable space:

• Mondragón Palace — 14th century, partly Arabic in origin
• Santa María la Mayor church — built on the site of a former mosque
• Plaza Duquesa de Parcent — Renaissance-style town hall
• Santa Isabel Convent — still functioning today
• Over 30 museums and galleries, cobbled streets and family mansions

The Tajo Valley Walk

The Carretera de los Molinos is a one-hour circular walk starting from Barrio San Francisco or the Mirador de María Auxiliadora. It descends to cross the Guadalevín river, returns via the Mirador de los Pinos, and reveals ancient farms with fortifications spanning over 1,000 years of history.

Famous Visitors — and One Famous Set of Ashes

Ronda has attracted remarkable visitors across the centuries. James Joyce and poet Rainer Maria Rilke — who called it "the city of dreams" — both visited. Orson Welles loved it so much his ashes were scattered at a nearby Ordóñez family farm. More recently, Michelle Obama, Bill Gates and former UK Prime Minister David Cameron have all made the trip.

Stay the Night

Ronda is Andalucía's third most-visited destination — yet most visitors come only for the day, and leave before they see its best side. After sunset, the crowds depart, the historic quarter's street lighting comes into its own, and the town takes on what one writer described as "a timeless edge". If you can only do one thing differently on your next visit, it's this: stay overnight.

This article is based on reporting from The Olive Press, published May 10, 2026.